Dirt Bike Battery

What a Dirt Bike Battery Actually Has to Do

A modern electric-start four-stroke asks a lot of a very small battery. The starter has to turn over a high-compression single, sometimes three or four times in a row after a stall, and the bike’s stator puts back very little at idle, so the battery lives on its reserve more than a street bike’s ever does. Lead-acid handles that badly: it sulfates in the weeks between rides, fades as it drains, and the YTZ7-size brick weighs close to five pounds, carried high behind the engine. A lithium battery for dirt bike duty fixes all three. The LiFePO4 pack we carry weighs 1.3 lb in the same case, holds its charge through the off-season, and cranks at full strength on the last stall of the day, not just the first.

Two habits keep it happy. Charge it with a lithium-profile charger or maintainer, never a lead-acid charger with a desulfation mode, and on an older machine keep an eye on the regulator, because a tired rectifier that lets charging voltage climb past about 15V is hard on any lithium pack. On a cold morning, key on for thirty seconds before you press the button: the small load wakes the cells and the crank comes in strong. And if you come back to the truck and the key was left on, the RE-START button on the Antigravity packs reconnects a held-back reserve and gets the bike running, no jumper pack needed.

The fit test is simple. If the bike has a starter button, it needs a battery and this page is for you; a kick-only bike usually runs its lights straight off the stator and needs nothing here. Match the case first. The YTZ7 (sold as YTZ7S or YTZ7-BS on a lead-acid label) is the workhorse size on electric-start motocross and enduro four-strokes, and the Antigravity pack we carry also lists the smaller YTZ5S, YTX4L and YTX5L trays as direct replacements, so most electric-start singles are covered by one battery. Confirm the year, make and model with us at 888-274-7544 before you order and we will tell you in a minute whether it drops in.